Putting the Din in Dinner on the East Side

The post-college crowds (and chaos) of Second Avenue are drifting south.

Midtown East, Sutton Place, Turtle Bay -- eastern neighborhoods known more for quiet high rises and antique shops -- can always use more restaurants, so we are glad to see a more populated First and Second Avenues. A recent visit to The Smith, one of a string of three locations in the city, revealed a handsome (though anonymous) dining room with great white tiling and half-assed vintage accents (a bunch of old bottles in wall cases does not charming atmosphere make).

The vibe and the soundtrack are decent enough if you could hear yourself think. Energy in a place is always appreciated, but gaggles of clamoring twentysomethings barking at each other between staring at their phones and sharing what are assumed to be notable and engaging texts across tables isn't the kind of pleasant dining white noise that relaxes.

A good enough cocktail list, good enough menu and good enough service layer the experience and bolster it to the standing of one of the best options in the neighborhood. But to praise The Smith too much would be like praising what's on TBS on weekday afternoons... probably the best of what's around but nothing to DVR.

Basics: http://www.thesmithnyc.com/

Be Advised: Afternoon drinks and snacks at the bar are your best bet at any of the chain's three outposts. Seafood is a specialty; I hate to admit but the lobster roll with chips is quite pleasing.